hey i currently graduated with my BS Deg... and eager to get into the workforce.......

i need a portfolio of the work that ive done to show what i can do and have done....

1 catch! i dont know where to begin.... hehe
i have constructed a couple of models out of basswood and various exotic materials.... and need to take pictures for a portfolio..... now! this model is no ORDINARY model........ its 3 feet wid and 8 feet in length..... @ 1/16"=1'-0"..... not a small model.......

i have a canon EOS rebel XT cam w/ stock lens...... sould i use a black background? what could i use for lighting??? dont know where to begin.... sadly...


here is a pic of the model
http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h162/kowdingles/TRY1.jpg

any advice?

im really poor at photographic advice..but excellent model man! :D

If you're at square one and you haven't a clue, just look for some books on portfolios and start to read:

Harold Linton's books (any version will suffice)
The Portfolio: An Architecture Student's Handbook

As to the shot: use one main light and one fill from the side. Start to play around with it and get some good shots. Take a ton of shots and edit from there.
A non-distracting background helps, which is why most use a black background. But, begin to think about how it ties into your presentation of your work and how the background works with the ideas you are presenting. Make it all purposeful and not just another model pic.

Dingles,

On the photographing of the model... If you have access to any "professional" lighting I would recommend that. Maybe a hot light with for the general scene and then using a detached speed light that you can adjust for a fill flash for different effects. But if not I think TRogers advise is good. I would use the second light as a way of getting good shadows on the model to simulate the sun as best as possible. And remember to not be shy with your shots. Take a ton and fill that card up.

I shoot with the XTI (400D)... the XT is very similar and the quality of photos are very good. I think Swanke uses the XT (350D) and some of the shots he is shooting for his built work is looking really good.

As for the background if you go with an all black this will make it easier to select this area of the photo in PS if you want to add color or even add in a sky. By not having a constant neutral background this makes it more difficult.

Hope that helps...

great advice.. no im an armature.... hehe i dont have access to studio lighting ... but i may need some brighter lights i pointed them at my white ceiling... and it reflected them down to the model....... i used a black sheet and photoshoped a background abit....

but when i moved the camera to a different spot the shutter didnt stay open as long... is that because i have it on Av ?? should i just use the M?


http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h162/kowdingles/hum.jpg


as far as angles ill do that eventually

Great model. I have little experience, but maybe get a few good overall shots that are interesting, and can grab someone's attention. Also, maybe think about what you (personally) really love about the model, and get some pictures that you think can demonstrate this. That may be a starting point. But to be honest, I've only been in my program just over 1 month. Good luck.

not really got advice but you sure can make models. i should prob get you to make my final year model, he he. only joking.
But i think that the quality of the model is going to shine through either way.

Very nice model.
When you shoot with a sheet as a backdrop, make sure it is pulled tight when no "ripples". Those "ripples" will catch "light" differently and the backdrop will not look uniformed.

Also, make sure and take pictures from a person's POV ie. 5'-0" eye site line...set the camera literally on the model ground and angle it as if it were your head looking around. You would be suprised how many people will simply show shots of models from far far away. Those close ones give an indication of space flow and your design.

Good luck.

great advice.. no im an armature.... hehe i dont have access to studio lighting ... but i may need some brighter lights i pointed them at my white ceiling... and it reflected them down to the model....... i used a black sheet and photoshoped a background abit....


Pointing the light directly at the model may be of some use to create a more dynamic light. Especially if there was any thought given to how the design would respond to the sun.

Also, never us a transparent material as glass at that scale. I can just see right into the model, which has no floor plates or anything. Us something solid or translucent to represent glass, or nothing at all.

The idea of the camera on the model's floor is best, you would like to show perspective and the flow of the design by doing this. Also some semi-harsh lighting mimicking the sun and casting dramatic shadows would be great. Perhaps take one wide angle if you have access to a lens, and the rest close-ups from different angels.

I pshop'd this to show you another effect, if your camera has a macro mode or if you can use selective focus, that would render some amazing shots, IMO

http://www.curiousculture.com/ppb/photo_model.jpg

I haven't shot models yet, but I can tell you that a common mistake I've seen is to use more than one main-light point source, and have them characteristically do the same thing. I've seen this in portraiture too, resulting in ugly cross shadows. That setup should be reserved for flat art copy work.

Try to put your model in a larger room so you can easily move around it, place lighting, and get it away from light bouncing walls.

If you want to mimic the outdoors, you want one specular point source (sun) from as far away from the model as you can get it. The distance will help even out the exposure from side to side, and edge to edge, as direct sunlight doesn't fall off in exposure. Next you NEED skylight (fill) from above, or else it looks like a spotlight at night. Granted room walls will supply fill, but the angle of reflectance (and color) isn't always natural. I suggest bouncing your fill lights off a white ceiling. They should be about 2 stops less than the sun source. And if you want to get picky, use a slight blue gel (1/4 CTB) on the fill light will to add blue into the shadows. You could also add a 1/4 CTO on the sun to warm it up. Color contrast helps separate the sources too. If you need additional fill into dark areas, bounce your sun or fill light off some white Fome-Cor boards. Mirrors also can add fill sparkle.

I'd suggest tungsten light instead of strobe/flash. You'll be able to see the effect, as long as it's in a room without windows, or at night. I'm assuming when you say stock lens, you have the 18-55mm? Not the sharpest tack in the box, but if you stop down to f16 and shoot on a tripod with self timer/mirror lockup, you should be ok. (The 10-22 would give you more of a wide perspective from close up.) Set your camera on ISO 100 and Av, and then bracket exposures minus 1 thru plus 1, in 1/3 stops. I don't know if you're familiar with exposing/processing RAW files instead of JPG, but you'd have a lot more flexibility in post processing if you do shoot RAW.

Happy shooting,
John

Get down into the model. Hit it with a bright light at an angle to cast some shadows and get your camera at a lower level. I enjoy shots of model from a 'street perspective'.